Showing posts with label italy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label italy. Show all posts

Monday, July 25, 2011

Rebounding

I still miss Italy... the experience, the people, the lifestyle. Being home is so different. Everyone speaks my language, an "antique" is something made in the 1950s, and coffee comes in a giant thermos rather than a sweet little mug. Instead of the beautiful view of Urbino's city walls, I'm watching sweaty kids playing in the pool from the vantage point of my lifeguard chair. In about a week the last of my friends that are still in Italy will be returning to the States, and I'll no longer be able to follow their blogs and photos, imagining I'm in Europe again. I guess it's time to get over being mopey and start focusing on real life.

Between my Italian trip and my return to Colorado in mid-August, I'm trying to work as much as possible and get back into shape. With humid Maryland days and a heat index of 115, though, finding energy and motivation is not easy. I haven't been able to go on a run longer than half an hour without feeling like passing out, and the pool feels like bath water. It's the first time I've taken such an extended break from exercise since junior year of high school, and it's a tough climb back up.


One thing that always gets me going, though, is a new piece of equipment. I just paid the deposit for my new tri bike, a Quintana Roo Chicqilo 2010. It's pink and white and super fast, and it's waiting for me in Highlands Ranch. The day I fly into Denver on August 17, I'm heading over to pick it up. Having a well-fitting, speedy bike will definitely make me want to get out on the roads as much as possible. I'm tired of spin class! I've also got a brand new pair of running shoes, the most recent version of the Mizuno Wave Riders, and my first pair of racing flats, neon yellow Saucony Grid Type A4s (free with the gift certificate we won at Nationals!) Who wouldn't want to get out and use all this fancy new gear?


I just keep telling myself that if I work hard through this part of the summer, bear the heat and humidity, and rely heavily on my iPod, I'll be back to my team in no time. In three weeks, I'll be in the foothills of Boulder trying to survive "Hell Week" with old and new Buffs. I'll be moving into a cute, spacious house with two of my best friends and one teammate that I'm looking forward to getting to know better. I'll have a class schedule full of journalism and education classes (no more calc!), and I'll go back to the CU Independent as an experienced returning reporter. I may even have a job at Boom Yogurt Bar, a brand new Ripple-style joint owned by a couple professional triathletes, Matt and Kelly Reed. (Just sent in the application, so it'll be a little while before I know for sure!)

Though I love being home, I get restless knowing that Colorado life is just around the corner. I miss being part of such a close-knit group like I had in Urbino, and it's hard to find that at home this summer since so many of my friends are traveling. Once in Boulder, I'll settle back into my CU Tri Team family, reunite with my best friends/sisters/roommates, and of course meet tons of new people. And being greeted every morning with the incredible Flatirons will be pretty cool too, I guess.

23 days. Hurry up :)

Give and take.
Caryn

  

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Urbino: An Impossible Summary

Before I left for Italy, I promised family and friends that I would blog at least every once in awhile about my adventures. I wrote two before coming to Urbino, and then just... didn't. Rather than sitting at a computer, I preferred hanging out in the piazza (the main town square) with my best friends, reporting and interviewing for my magazine feature story, or spending time with the boy I met and grew close with over just a couple weeks. When I wasn't doing any of that, I was catching up on much-needed sleep or refueling at the mensa (dining hall). So I don't apologize for not blogging while in Urbino-- my only regret is that now I'll have to try and summarize four incredible weeks now that I'm already home.

I've been home from Italy for five days, and each one has felt like the day after Christmas. I wake up, realize I'm not in my dorm in Colle and won't be going to eat my daily croissant and cappuccino with my group, and just want to go back. I've been spending so much time on the computer looking at pictures and talking to my Urbino friends that my family and friends here don't think I like them anymore. Considering how much I miss my group and the town of Urbino itself, I think it's safe to say it was an absolutely amazing experience.

When the trip started, many of us were a little uncertain. The dorms were a long walk from the main part of town, we had no internet access, and the program seemed pretty disorganized. Once we started doing our reporting, we had some difficulty setting up interviews and finding interpreters, and a lot of our story ideas had to either be modified or changed completely. There was a lot of homesickness, frustration, and stress in the first week or two, but I knew it was all character-building. We learned about some of the challenges of international reporting, and we became close with each other along the way.

By the time the second week was over, I had completed all of my reporting and was starting to work on writing my feature article. My story was on cyclotourism: a form of travel via bike in which travelers see different towns and attractions, stopping along the way to explore and enjoy. Though it took forever, I actually found a place to rent a bike in a nearby town and did a little "cyclotouring" myself, along part of a route I'd picked up at Urbino's tourism office. I then drove the remainder of the course with an interpreter and did some interviews with the owner of a bike shop and a local triathlete. During my ride/drive, I discovered a few towns with rich history that are pretty much unknown to the average tourist -- you can read about them in my article, which I'll post here soon. I was working hard to get all of my reporting done before the weekend so I could travel, and I'm so, so glad I did.

A group of about ten of us chose Cinque Terre as our one big traveling adventure. It's a gorgeous set of five towns along the Mediterranean coast, all less than five miles apart. We hiked between the towns, stopping in each one to swim, shop, and snack on gelato/pizza/fruit. I walked down the Via Dell'Amore with Max... it was pretty perfect. And we ate amazing seafood at the same restaurant two nights in a row (because it was just so darn good.) Even though we failed in our plan to spend the night on the beach, sleeping on the balcony of our hotel listening to the nighttime sounds of Monterosso was totally worth it. We were sad to leave the magic of Cinque Terre, and a train strike in Tuscany made our way back to Urbino long and miserable, but our time there was some of the best travel I've ever done.

The third week was crunch time for writing our stories, which means many hours spent at the cafe and many euros spent on cappuccinos. Little sleep, lots of nail biting, and a strong need to blow of steam at night in the piazza. This town square, with a fountain in the middle surrounded by a restaurant, pharmacy, cafe, and bar, become our second home. The businesses didn't even have names (not that we knew of, anyway) -- we just called them "the cafe" and "Giorgio's Bar." We spent at least a couple hours in the piazza every night, and it's where most of our best memories were made. Some things I'll never forget: teaching the Italians how to play Thumper (the universal language), throwing everyone into the fountain at various times and for various reasons, watching the Italians graduate one at a time in their laurel crowns, ordering rum & cola over and over again from Giorgio, explaining the meaning of the word "lightweight" to the bartenders when Yue was too drunk, and giving everyone tearful hugs on the last night when we decided not to sleep before catching the 5 am bus to the airport.

That final week was an emotional one. We were doing the final edits and sidebars for our stories, but we had other things on our mind. We would be leaving each other soon, and while we were looking forward to being home, we were anticipating some tough goodbyes. My favorite memories from the last week: Canada Day / our friend SirRoan's birthday, which we celebrated at Bosom Bar and during which our Pulitzer Prize-winning photojournalism professor snapped photos of us taking shots all night... "Pink Night," a themed, all-night party on the beaches of Rimini and Riccione that a few friends and I went to with no plan whatsoever, getting back to Urbino at 9:30 am still drunk and toting foam crowns and pink tulle fabric.. the 4th of July, when Giorgo's bar gave us half-price drinks and Q Club held an "Indipendance Party" that SirRoan DJ-ed... and our final meal as an entire group, a banquet at a restaurant across from the Duomo.

On the second-to-last night, things mellowed out when the boy I was with heard about the death of one of his best friends. As I helped him through that loss, knowing at the same time that it was my last two days with him and with the rest of my group, I spent a whole lot of time crying. I did a lot of reflecting on why I had come to Italy, what I had learned here and how it had changed me, and whether or not I'd made the most out of my time. I'm proud of the work I created and the skills I learned in terms of journalism and international reporting. I expanded my perspective beyond the bubble that is Boulder, Colorado, got to know a whole different way of life, and improved my Italian tenfold. Most of all, though, I'm really grateful to have met such amazing people, both Italian and American. I made a few friends that I know I'll keep for a very long time, and I met a boy who made the whole experience twice as special. Like my friend Maddie said, "You can't search for genuine experience, it has to find you and it will most likely kick your ass just as much as it heals you."


The sadness I've been feeling since being home is that kick in the ass, that proof that I've just had a life-changing adventure. I'm glad that I'm sad, if that makes any sense... because I know it was worth every minute.

Arrivederci, Italia -- I'll be back.

Friday, July 1, 2011

Urbino Clutter

Sooo.... I've been doing so much writing for our magazine here in Urbino that I really haven't felt like writing a long blog. Instead, I'm just copy-pasting a word doc that I've had open and that I've been building since we got here. It's a bunch of random lists, quotes, and song lyrics that probably don't make sense to anyone else, but right now it's the best I can do. I just had two cappuccinos, can't focus... and oh yeah, HAPPY CANADA DAY! We have four Canadians in our group and we're livin' it up tonight.

Here, enjoy the clutter.
  • toscana: fattoria tregole, wine tour, big lunch, carsick/castles, homemade dinner
  • norwegians run, pool, firenze w/ bernardo, homemade lunch by grandma
  • long car/bus/train/car day to masseria dell’isola in mola di bari, huge late dinner by rita, listening to italian table
  • huge breakfast, beach towns, ostuni, alberobello w/ tulli, italian directions, dinner by rita and her history
  • tedious money issues w/ rita, to san teodoro, homemade dinner (calamari and orechiette)
  • san teodoro day: run to beach while dad biked, pool, beach, lunch on balcony, laps in pool (giovanni), attempt to go out w/ crazy pisticci driving, gelato
  • drive beautiful mountain views to sorrento, insane driving in city, angel in lavender pants, tiny villa angiolina finally, pompeii!, great fish dinner w/ drunk grandma
  • bus to positano on amalfi coast, beach day, ferry back, amazing family love, dinner at tasso
  • trains to rome, scammer man with mom, drop off at rome airport, bus to urbino, tons of steps, mediocre dinner, numbers and bed (summer camp-ish)
TOOTHPASTE!
SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER and hand soap/body wash
EXTRA TOWELS/LINENS/WASHCLOTHS
Q-TIPS
toilet paper?
Now, as I feel myself getting sunburned before the ride has even begun, I can’t remember why. 
maybe the train switches but we dont
blue scholars-- mary in sunshine 
album cinematropolis
“he asked if I had a good time last night”
*** a cashier from behind (a)
*** look inside this open door to see the restoration (not resurrection) of Jesus (c)
*** Rafaello sculpture (not crucial) (f)
*** the oldest tree in urbino (j) --> past red door end of road??
*** a shadow of time (k)
*** a religious procession (gelato or coffee?) (o)
*** the towns oldest pharmacy? confirm? (q) go inside?
-- 3 bike in field portraits
-- portraits of Roberto, Angelo, and Fabio
-- me with bike
-- backside of castle and castle with tree in front and farther out castle w/ tree
-- Urbania sign
-- Sant’Angelo in Vado sign
-- clock in Piandemeleto
-- Piandemeleto shadows
-- Cascata / Industrial sign
-- hilly landscape
-- landscape w/ town and vines
-- Piandemeleto Ristorante Toni and Rosy
-- Metaurus River
-- Sant’Angelo landscape w/ water (w/ and w/o bike), Sant’Angelo town w/ flags
-- Cascata del Sasso (2 landscapes and portrait)
-- Happy Bike (store front and door)
-- bike against tree
La cantuccio
cat daddy, cat daddy
“I have some guam in me, obviously”
  • Are you ready for the heat?
    • If you’re planning on riding midday, sunscreen and water are crucial items. Summer temperatures in Le Marche commonly reach __ degrees, and dehydration can become a serious risk. 
    • Many public fountains in Italy spout clean, drinkable water. But before you fill that empty bottle, look for any signs that say “non potabile.” If you have doubts about a fountain’s drinkability, just ask a local, “Si puo beve?” It means, “Can you drink this?”
***** when you get there don’t look for store sign
but there just aint no place like home... if you ever see the beauty of the hills of carolina or the sweetness of the grass in tennessee

Tuesday, May 31, 2011

European Adventures Part 1: Farms, Food, and Phantoms

I can't believe it-- I've been in Europe for a week, and I'm just now finding the time to write. It's not that I haven't had down time, but I've been so busy relaxing, eating delicious meals that last for three hours, and trying to mix French, Italian, and English to talk with people that I've barely thought about the blog I promised to keep up. I've already had so many amazing experiences, and I still have six weeks left! But although I've been to the Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower, taken taxis, buses, metros, and trains through bustling cities, and done plenty of shopping, the best moments have been quiet ones in the countryside. I would probably feel like I was missing something crucial if I didn't "see the sights" in famous cities like Paris, Rome, and Florence, but mostly I've found that real French and Italian people prefer to take life slowly. They work in the mornings, take a long lunch break with fresh, delicious food and wine, and have an afternoon siesta. A little more work in the evening, then a light dinner and some family time before bed. Even those with demanding jobs recognize the value of family time and a good glass of wine. It's such a contrast to the constantly rushed lifestyle I have at school in Colorado, and while I love my busy Boulder routine, it's been amazing to see things from a different perspective.

My mom and I spent our first few days in Ussy-sur-Marne, France, a little farming village on the Marne River about 45 minutes from Paris. Moe Delaitre, a former neighbor who has been my "other mother" since I was two, fell in love with and married a French farmer, and she recently moved from the States to France permanently. We stayed at her farmhouse with her husband, Jean Francois, and her 7-year-old daughter, Ella. We spent six days in France, mostly on the farm but including day trips to Paris and Reims. During that time, Moe, "JF,"and Ella were our translators, cultural guides, and dear friends.

And then it was Italy time. Early yesterday morning, we took a plane to Rome Ciampino, and after a long day of traveling, met my dad and grandmother in a tiny, ancient walled city called Casperia. Here, we've had some incredible pizza, pasta, and wine, taken long walks, and enjoyed the mountain scenery from the balcony of our bed and breakfast. It all feels like a dream.

Some of my favorite moments of this week (a LOT of them have to do with food!):

- Fresh farm food in Ussy: Picking strawberries and cherries (which were later made into jam), watching the cows being milked and then drinking that milk the same day, and eating baguettes fresh from the bakery at every meal.
- Drinking champagne at a restaurant in the actual region of Champagne in France with my mother and my "other mother"
- Eating at a tiny creperie in Paris. In the midst of the tourist-filled city, Moe found us an authentic place on a side street where there were only "real French people."
- Going to a party for a Catholic girl's "profession de foi"(profession of faith) at a neighboring farm and seeing the castle that was the inspiration for the one in Beauty and the Beast
- The moment when, after taking a taxi, plane, bus, metro, train, and another bus from Ussy all the way to Casperia, my mom and I finally saw my dad running down the hill from the bed and breakfast to greet us
- The five-course meal made for us by Paola and Franco, two restaurant owners in Casperia who opened their home to a private dinner for the bed and breakfast guests
- Walking with my dad up a winding hill to a monastery where we could see the walled city of Casperia from a distance
- Using my Italian and translating for my family at a pizzeria in Casperia, where I watched my grandmother get tipsy

And the not-so-good:

- The farmhouse in Ussy is truly haunted. I stayed there another summer when I was about 13, and one of the girls I was traveling with got woken up in the night like she had been nudged by someone or something, and it terrified her. On our first night last week, I stayed in that same room, and woke up in the middle of the night to what felt like a poke in the ribs. I was so scared, I slept in my mom's bed the rest of the night, and in little Ella's bed for the nights after that. Moe thinks the ghost is her husband's grandmother, who died in childbirth inside the farmhouse. She's now comfortable with the ghost's presence, knowing she's just "checking in," but it still terrifies me.

- I've already accepted the fact that with all the pasta, pizza, gelato, and wine, and without all the triathlon training, I'll have a lot of work to do fitness-wise when I get home. I ran once in Ussy and again today in Casperia (very hilly!), and we've been walking a lot. Still, it's nearly impossible to try and stay a triathlete and be part of the traditional small-town Italian lifestyle at the same time. But I'm okay with taking a step back for a few weeks, I think. When I get to my study abroad in Urbino, which is hilly like Casperia, I'll work on finding a running buddy and getting back into it. I've also been assigned to the "Outdoor" section of the magazine we'll be creating, so hiking and caving, here I come! :)

Pictures coming soon!!!

Dare e prendere.
Caryn

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

A New Set of Priorities

I'm home! Here I am in Annapolis, Maryland, sitting at a table outside the City Dock Cafe in 70 degree sunny weather. It actually feels like summer here-- shorts and flip flops, ice cream outings, and that beautiful Chesapeake Bay. At the Naval Academy, the freshmen-to-be will be starting Plebe Summer soon (I'll feel sorry for them the next time I'm running on the Navy track in a tanktop and they jog by wearing camo and backpacks, but I admire what they go through.) Best of all, Annapolis is hosting a triathlon this Saturday! At the Tri-Rock sprint triathlon, athletes swim in the Chesapeake, bike by the Naval Academy, and run through historic colonial downtown. Live music all through the course! The race directors were in desperate need of lifeguards, and since Oscar is officially sold to my roomie and I'm therefore bike-less, I'll be seeing the race from a perspective other than a competitor this time. I'll most likely be on a float or boat out in the water looking out for tired swimmers-- and meanwhile, I'll get a chance to check out people's open water swimming techniques and maybe get some tips. :)

I'll only be here for ten more days, though. On May 23, my mom and I fly to Paris. We'll spend a few days in France visiting my other mother, Moe Delaitre, at her farm in Ussy. After that, my dad and grandmother will fly out to meet us and we'll tour Italy for a week or so-- my grandmother is especially excited to see Bari, the southern Italian town where her family grew up but which she has never visited. On June 10, my family heads home and I meet my group in Urbino, Italy, where I'll spend four weeks doing a study abroad in magazine production and international reporting. :) The University of Urbino is one of the oldest colleges in the world, founded in 1506. It's in central Italy near the Adriatic coast. We'll spend our mornings taking Italian language classes, have a break from 1 to 3 according to Italian custom, and do reporting, interviewing, seminars, or one-on-one coaching in the afternoon. Our end goal is to create an English-speaking magazine called "Urbino Now" about the community, its culture and customs.

Our course description tells us that the magazine "will be a reflection of your explorations and discoveries in this beautiful rural region of ancient fests, traditional crafts, slow food, and slower living." It sounds like the perfect summer to me. One thing I'll have to make peace with, though, is that I won't be training a whole lot. I won't have a bike, so riding won't be possible. I'll spend some time in a pool if there's one nearby, but I'm not going to spend hours a day in a place that's probably just the same as any in the U.S. I have been thinking over the possibility of some open water swimming in the Adriatic, but we'll see if that's realistic. I'm definitely going to try and run, but I've heard that if you run in Italy, people thing you're running from the cops or something, so I'll just have to see how it goes. These six weeks will be a chance for me to enjoy the "slower living" described above. My priorities will be learning as much as I can about writing and reporting, stepping outside of my comfort zone, exploring new places, meeting new people, and taking the time to savor Italian meals of pasta and red wine. I'll have all the time in the world to get moving again once I get back to Annapolis, but in Italy, I'll go slow.

Dare e prendere.
Caryn